Advice

Bespoke or alterations — which do you need?

We are asked this most weeks, usually by someone holding a dress she loves that no longer fits. The answer is more often “alter it” than people expect — but there is a clear point where it stops being true.


Black off-shoulder gown with full sleeves, shown on a dress form

The short answer

If you love the fabric and the shape, and the problem is size or length, alter it. If you love the idea but not the dress in front of you — the neckline is wrong, the cloth is disappointing, the silhouette was never right — no amount of alteration will produce the dress you are imagining.

When alterations are clearly the right choice

  • Taking in up to two sizes, which most well-made dresses have the allowance for.
  • Shortening or lengthening a hem, including a lined or layered skirt.
  • Reshaping sleeves, or removing them entirely.
  • Adding a modesty panel, a lining, or a sleeve to a ready-made dress — one of our most frequent requests.
  • Adjusting a garment after a change in weight, before or after a pregnancy.
  • Re-fitting an inherited or vintage piece, which is some of the work we enjoy most.

When it stops making sense

Letting a dress out is limited by one thing the shop label never mentions: the seam allowance. Most ready-to-wear leaves one to two centimetres, which is roughly one size. Beyond that there is simply no fabric to work with, and inserting new cloth into a seam is visible on anything with a pattern, a sheen or a beaded surface.

The other limit is structural. Moving a shoulder seam, re-cutting an armhole or rebuilding a bodice means taking the dress apart and reassembling it — the labour of a new garment, spent on cloth you did not choose.

Alterations change the size of a dress. Only cutting changes its shape.

The cost, honestly

Alterations at our atelier start from QAR 150, and most straightforward work — a hem, a take-in, a sleeve — sits well below the price of anything made to order. Bespoke evening gowns start from QAR 1,200. Somewhere in between is a dress that needs so much work that you are paying couture prices for a compromise, and we will tell you when you have reached it rather than take the work.

How to decide in one message

Send three photographs on WhatsApp — the dress on a hanger, the dress on you, and a close view of the inside of the side seam — with the date you need it. That is enough for us to tell you whether it is a QAR 150 job, a QAR 600 job, or a dress worth starting again.

Let’s design your dress.

No payment required to start — we’ll confirm your fitting by WhatsApp.